I am not having a baby. This is a story of the day when Emma epiced at the crag BIG time.
Max and I went to Spain last November. What happened the second to last day of our seven day trip has taken me a long time to digest and recover from. Nine months to be exact.
First, I hurt my shoulder while I was climbing a route in Margalef. Second, I did it in the worst manner possible.
We had climbed several days in a row in Siurana so my muscles were already exhausted. Based on my climbing routine at home before the trip (two days on two days of) I should have known better.
I should have taken a rest day after four days of climbing and in between those four days.
But every time I go to the crag I want to climb as much as I can. That’s how it’s always been with me and climbing; go big or go home.
After climbing four routes I got tired but I still had my draws up on a climb. Max suggested he could get the draws down if I’m not feeling it. Right. Like I would let my BOYFRIEND get the draws for me.
Truth to be told, If I was climbing with a friend I would have gladly said yes. Please get the draws for me, I’ll buy you a beer. But I was there with my boyfriend and I knew I can get up this climb. So I refused the offer three times and reluctantly tied in and made my climbing partner, who just happens to be my boyfriend too, watch me epic.
Three clips from the top I pull on two tiny crimps and smear my feat up the smooth limestone. Right before I’m ready to lock of for the next move I realize I can’t move. Next I hear my right shoulder crack. Everything happened so fast I can’t say for sure what happened, but I believe my right shoulder gave in because I had placed too much weight on it.
Later I learned that my shoulder joint sublexed which means a partial dislocation of the shoulder and is common in sports that entail overhead activities such as volleyball, swimming, and climbing. I’ve never suffered from an acute sport injury so I got scared.
After sobbing for about five minutes I was able to calm myself down. Despite of what had just happened I was determined to go to the top.
The minute my feet touch the ground I start crying again. I don’t even know why I kept crying. I was relieved and happy because my shoulder was intact and pain free.
The pain finally came a week later at work. I was unable to lift my arm up to the keyboard. After seeing a physiotherapist the real problem started reveling itself. Climbing for three years had aggravated a problem I’ve been developing in my right shoulder since I first laid my hands on a computer.
I found a physiotherapist through my work. She pointed out the imbalance in my shoulder joint and arms too (my biceps are to big, poor Emma) and explained that my right shoulder should look like my left shoulder. During the winter months I climbed at the gym just an hour at a time twice a week.
The climbing did not cause this, but it sure did not help.
The physiotherapist explained to me which muscle groups I need to strengthen and which I should stretch. She also told me to pay more attention to my posture. I am very grateful for her. My shoulder is not perfect yet but it is better.
This upcoming weekend Katja and I are giving a first go to our Tampere linkup. The original idea was to climb the linkup in a day in one push but the only decent weather window is between Friday and Saturday afternoon.
Katja, get psyched and bring your headlamp!